PARISIAN HAUTE COUTURE BURSTS INTO EXTRAORDINARY BLOOMS, IN EXAGGERATED TULLE, IN LACE, FRILLS AND VEILS: THIS SEASON’S RUNWAYS HAVE NEVER BEEN SO BRIDE-FRIENDLY. THE MUST-HAVE ACCESSORY? THE ANKLE BOOT, BETTER STILL IF BOASTING A CRYSTAL HEEL.
For the Chanel runway show, the Gran Palais has been transformed into an enormous greenhouse, awash with white blooms, roses and jasmine. A perfect garden, complete with gushing fountain, sets the scene for gowns that have been extraordinarily embellished with 3D flowers, made by the skilful hands of Atelier Lesage embroiderers. “For this enchantment, we need people who keep these age-old techniques alive”, commented Karl Lagerfeld, turning the spotlight on craftsmanship. The runway show closed with a men’s suit, waistcoat and trouser, rendered ostentatious by a feather cape.
Giambattista Valli also opted for a garden theme with short tulle dresses studded with embroidered shoots, flaunting the usual exaggerated tail hems. Seemingly a contradiction, long and short, mimicking the gigantic A-line skirts with contrasting almost monastic lines, featuring fluttering cloaks.
Maria Grazia Chiuri intended to pay tribute to Leonor Fini, painter, writer, costume designer and friend to Monsieur Dior, as well as to Cocteau and Dalí, by rigorously alternating suits boasting masculine cuts, yet with exceptionally feminine sculpted jackets, with dresses featuring geometric shapes, and astonishing and recurring embroidery. The runway show was held in the splendid spaces of the Musée Rodin.
Armani looked to the sky for inspiration for the brand’s Privé collection, which pays homage to the clouds. A modern preciousness comprising short skirts beneath floaty tops and elegant bustiers, ‘slender’ volumes without rhetoric, yet special like the crystal trousers and dresses emblazoned with bows.
Bertrand Guyon, creative director of Schiapparelli adorns his dresses with lace patchwork, tulle frills and floral decorations in line with the brand's heritage, constituting a precious predominance of decorative elements, made current by their shapes and silhouettes.
‘Paris est une féte’ is the name given by Elie Saab to her collection evoking the exuberance of 1920’s soirées, with plays of feathers embellishing skirts and collars, with brilliant streaks and powder-pink tulle.
Ralph & Russo plays with the concept of origami, which on conventional cut garments, creates magical fabrics, swirling pleats, roses and frill-formed passageways. Zuhair Murad brings oriental appeal to the runway with tribal themes gracing princess-inspired dresses and fairytale tunics.
A line-up of events that has frequently seen white take centre stage, embellished by precious streaks, frill-formed passageways, billowing tulles and studded flowers, as per modern shapes that pay homage to artisan savoir-faire, without ever caving into vintage styling.