The first virtual catwalk dates back to 1998, when Helmut Lang organised a show behind closed doors, and without subsequent editions. In fact, he immediately doubled back on himself, reinstating the physical catwalk in all its magic, which comes from more senses than sight alone. Recently - due to the health crisis that requires social distancing - virtual shows have proved to be a feasible alternative. As demonstrated by the shows by Valentino, Etro and Dolce&Gabbana to name but a few of the stars of last September's fashion week. Imaginative performances, which a major prompt emerged from: search for, rediscover and re-propose reality, however mediated. The aim: to arouse emotions, through and despite the screen. An intermingling which, under the name of phygital, has given rise to the opportunity to directly and emotionally involve all the industry players, albeit at a distance, from buyers to end customers. A fundamental partner in this realm has undoubtedly been social media networks, with their ability to empathise with and get close to people, even if it’s remotely. The other key piece of the puzzle is creativity. Several designers have invoked creative ingenuity to weave emotional tales steeped in the poetic, once-in-a-lifetime circumstances, similar to what could be achieved using the imagination — none more so than Dior and Matteo Garrone. Delightful examples, but they are exceptions among many other less impactful events.

In fact, there are several signs hinting at what has happened before already: a step backwards. Or rather, a return to the physical, sensory, and emotional realm that can come only from contact. Because a wedding dress is a dream, and right now a fashion show is the only means of bringing it back to life. No digital channel is actually capable of rendering the full sense of beauty of a collection. Your hands need to touch it and your eyes need to fall in love with it, the quality of the fabrics, the care in the finishes, the story each dress tells against a backdrop that cannot be done justice in a pixel, but must absorb viewers through all five senses. This is the role of the fashion show. The irreplaceable role. A theatrical performance that puts beauty on the stage, augmenting all its sensory dimensions. Central to the narrative are the dresses. Dreams that have become reality through the hands of an artisan, and as such can only be represented by reproducing those dreams. It’s not an easy reproduction, and if constrained by the limits of a monitor, it’s impossible. It’s precisely in a fashion show that it finds itself best expressed.